The Hollywood male hasn't always been that clueless--or so eager to abandon his role setting high style for middle America. Once upon a time, leading men knew clothes.His paradox conclusion, that the tuxedo is both aristocratic and democratic, is refreshingly true. Think of all those old rags-to-riches books and movies in which the main character can "blend" into high society by dint of knowing the true sartorial secrets. I always think of the socially climbing Monty Clift in "The Heiress." I love the scene where Ralph Richardson gives him a subtle sniff and remarks on the quality of his after shave. "That's a fine bay rum you're wearing," he says (or something like that). Who the hell would ever say that upon meeting a prospective son-in-law? But the point is, Clift has literally dressed himself for the part. And even if Richardson can see through the ersatz respectability, Olivia de Havilland is fooled.Take Cary Grant. Engaged to star in the Cole Porter biopic "Night and Day," the actor soon realized the script was a stinker. And so he focused his attention on what really mattered, nearly driving the director to quit with punctilious costume demands. At one point Grant brought production to a halt, standing on his God-given right to expose exactly one-eighth of an inch of shirt cuff beyond his tuxedo sleeve, not the sloppy quarter-inch the bumpkins over in wardrobe had given him. The movie may have been a disaster, but Cary Grant looked good.
Friday, April 09, 2004
Tuxedo Junction: On the WSJ Taste page this week, tradition-minded musician Eric Felton looks at what passes for formal dress these days:
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