A Week Off: More actually. I spent the time in Cleveland, doing Christmas with my in-laws. Say what you will about Cleveland, I was delighted by at least one cultural advantage: ashtrays everywhere. Everywhere! (Okay, not in the elevators, and certainly not in our non-smoking hotel room, but you get the point.) The first night in our hotel, my wife asked where I had gone for a cigarette. "The lobby," I said. She was stunned. If this secret gets out, all the people who smoke will leave New York for Cleveland, and since everyone save a few busybodies smokes in New York, Cleveland will be a hopping town. "No more shivering in doorways, folks. Yes sirree, we smoke indoors in Ohio!"